VIII. Selbstständigkeit

Choir rehearsal this evening. We practiced for an hour, then had a farewell party for one of the tenors. That's the thing about Christ Church's congregation; very few of them are permanent residents of the city, so it's hard to build a lasting community. (I must add here that the stereotype that Anglicans are fond of drink is altogether true. But they're lovely people nonetheless.) Walking home I had, for the first time, some sense of what it would be like living in Vienna on my own, getting to appointments and rehearsals and the like. It would be very rewarding, I think. I've been quite coddled by the whole experience of living with 38 other Americans, and it's prevented me from experiencing the city as I would otherwise. (Mind you, it's necessary to have friends in Vienna, as the citizenry will never be warm here. Polite, yes, always, but never warm. It's an important distinction.) To live in Vienna as an independent individual would be challenging, of course, but eventually learning to do so would be worth it. Even now, having been here only seven weeks, it's rewarding to reflect on how much I've learned: what sort of Schnitzel to order, which tram line goes where, which churches have the best music, how not to offend waiters. It doesn't feel like home yet, but it could.

VII. Café Prückel

It's the Vienna Marathon today. After church (Anglican; special music included an excellent brass quintet), we walked over to the Ringstraße, where the runners were. There were Strauss waltzes being blasted out by loudspeakers around the course! Only in Vienna, I suppose; I certainly can't imagine any sort of classical music being played at marathons in the states. At an outdoor table at the Café Prückel (which, I've decided, is my favorite Kaffeehaus in the city) we had omelettes and coffee and watched the runners. I finished it off with some exemplary Sachertorte. It's been simply a wonderful day, so far; the trick is to take time to observe, to think, to discuss. That's why the Viennese have cafés: to eat slowly, watch people, and generally enjoy themselves. (The waiters at these establishments are professionals, and act as such. They realize that it's their job to see that customers are content, and accordingly give them all the time they want. Never are we forced to eat quickly and leave, here.) Americans would do well to emulate this way of living: if only we had time to sit back and relax, we'd be happier and more productive.

If there's a better way to spend a Sunday afternoon than at a Viennese café with some Sachertorte in the Springtime, I've not experienced it.

VI. Ostern

Is today Easter already? Has it been three weeks since my last entry? Do I have things to write about? Yes, yes and, apparently, yes.

The last three days I've attended services at Christ Church Vienna, a very friendly (English-speaking) Anglican congregation; today I went to both services, and was, for the second, conscripted into the choir. It appears I'll be attending there somewhat regularly for the rest of the term. (They were kind enough to let me practice on their Casavant organ! Oh how I've missed the touch of the keys on my fingers... and, er, feet.) Anglicans seem to be quite an amiable bunch; their theology is so middle-of-the-road that it's hard to disagree with them violently on anything. In any case, the congregation of Christ Church was particularly kind. (Of course, compared to the Viennese, anyone who looks you in the eye and says words to you is the epitome of gregariousness. I thought for several weeks that perhaps I just didn't understand the Viennese; I think now that I do, and that they're simply not pleasant people.)

I've done so many things that it would be silly to write about them all. This past weekend I visited the Lainzer Tiergarten, which used to be the Habsburgs' private hunting grounds. We saw lots of wild boar tracks, but thankfully no wild boars. It was a beautiful day, with a refreshing breeze, and we went up to the overlook and looked over Vienna. It's a beautiful city from any angle. We then proceeded from the Tiergarten to a Biergarten, and had Spätzle and Radlers, which is a delicious combination. (A Radler is half-beer, half-lemonade; even I, who rather dislike beer, enjoy it.) Finally the weather is coöperating, as if to make up for those dreary first few weeks: we've had seventy-degree weather with no rain for more than a week now.